Powell, ID to Missoula, MT. 58.7 miles.
Awoke at 6am this morning, about an hour earlier than typical, in anticipation of crossing over into the Mountain time zone in today's ride. The rain had stopped, and the surrounding tree-covered hills were shrouded in patches of fog. The forecast called for a dramatic change, with partly sunny conditions and a high of 78 degrees F.
Foster and I were on the road by around 7 am. As we left the lodge and turned back onto the main road, we were immediately thrown into a climb. That
climb was going to continue for about 15 miles until we reached Lolo Pass. We were also leaving the Lochsa River, and started following one of it's tributaries, Crooked Fork Creek.
The fog slowly discipated into isolated patches, and exposed the partly-cloudy sky in the background.
The morning dew had accumulated on the bright green new growth at the tips of the trees, glistening in the sun. Cedars lined the creek, with pale green moss drooping from their limbs.
The steepness of the climb was told by the creek I was following, now a continuous ribbon of rapids. The water, bouncing off of rocks as it made its way downhill, was like an advanced skier navigating moguls on a steep slope. I was working hard, in low gears, to keep my momentum going.
Around the corner, a pull-out with a historical marker. Perfect excuse to pull over and take a break. The stop told the struggles of Lewis & Clark as they passed through this same location on June 29th, 1806. It gave me a different perspective on my own challenge of making it over the pass.
The patchwork appearance of the surrounding hillsides was also explained here. The land grants issued by the US Government in 1908 to the North Pacific Railroad Company created a checkerboard pattern of land ownership that is visible today by the appearance of the various land use practices. The alternating plots in the area are owned by the US Forest Service and the Plum Creek Timber Company.
Ok, enough stalling, I've got to get back on the road. I continued up the road, hoping that the pass would be around the next corner. I was breathing harder, now at around 5000 feet in elevation. It was cold, but I was sweating as I kept the pedals going. Finally, a sign of relief ahead. One mile to go!
As I reached the summit, I was crossing several boundaries. Lolo Pass, at 5,225 feet, represented the boundary between Idaho to the West, and Montana to the East.
It was also the boundary between two time zones, the Pacific time zone to the West and the Mountain time zone to the East.
And, while all the creeks, streams, and rivers that I had been following were flowing towards the Pacific Ocean, it would seem as though that would all change at this point. Lolo Pass is easily confused as being part of the Continental Divide, although it is not. From this point forward, the river on the East side of the pass, namely Lolo Creek, does flow East as it descends down into the basin where Missoula is located, connecting with the Bitterroot River. But, this basin still drains to the North and West, eventually connecting to the Columbia River.
I will have one more pass to climb, East of Lincoln, before I will officially cross the Continental Divide.
From Lolo Pass it was all down hill the rest of the way to Missoula, Montana. The first part of this descent was steep and fast. Then, like an oasis to reward the hard work of navigating the pass, I came upon the historic Lolo Hot Springs. Lewis & Clark, sore and weary from their travels, soaked in these springs in 1806. They have since been somewhat developed, starting in 1902.
There's a restaurant here with the reputation of serving up a mighty good breakfast. It certainly lived up to its reputation. And, after eating, I enjoyed the historical photos of the springs around the restaurant. Here's a picture of the "pool house" structure built over the hot springs, taken in 1926.
And, the employees of Lolo Hot Springs lined up for a photo in the 1930s.
My muscles needed a good hot soaking. There are two pools. The indoor pool has encorporated the natural rocks at the source of the spring into the pool design, and was 104 degrees F.
The outdoor pool, more modern in design, was 88 degrees F.
I could have soaked all day at this place, but I had 40 more miles to ride to get to Missoula.
The rest of the descent was gradual, with a decent wind at my back. I felt great and was excited about getting to the big town.
Missoula is home to the non-profit Adventure Cycling Association (ACA), the source of the maps that are routing me safely across the US. The ACA works tirelessly through donations and membership to promote bicycle safety, advocating for wider road shoulders, dedicated bike lanes, etc through their collaborations with cities and states across the US. Please consider donating to them, or better yet, become a member!
My map guided me right to the ACA headquarters in the downtown area. As I walked in the door, I was greeted with smiles and genuine interest about my trip. They took my picture and put it on the wall, gave me free ice cream, and showed me to the bicyclist lounge where free Internet access and a plethora of resources were at my disposal.
I shared a room one more night with Foster at a cheap hotel before saying goodbye as his route takes him in a different direction.
The next three days, I'll be spending the weekend with my wife Victoria in Missoula! I can't wait for her to arrive on Friday afternoon!
Evelyn is getting into your biking! She asked me "where's Judd?" this morning and we looked at the U.S. map to show her the states you've biked through. She also has the following observations: "That looks like my playdough" (huckleberry cobbler); "He really likes to ride his bike;" "I think he has a whiskers" and last but not least, "He knows how to swim in a pool! Wow!"
ReplyDeleteEvelyns' comments made me laugh! She is very precocious for her age. What a doll!
DeleteStill impressed. So glad you spent a few days with your sweet wife.
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