Pomeroy, WA to Winchester, ID. 75.5 miles.
On leaving the Pomeroy fairgrounds where I camped, I had a train of kids on bikes follow me out to the end of the parking lot before their parents called them back.
The morning ride began with a 500 ft climb over the first 5 miles to the Alpowa summit, at 2,785 ft above sea level. This is the highest elevation on my trip so far. The views from the summit included 360 degrees of farmland.
Lewis & Clark passed through this location early in May 1806, headed East after spending the winter at their terminus on the Pacific Ocean.
From this location, my route descends 1800 feet into the Snake River Basin. Once reaching the Snake River, I followed it for another 9 miles or so before arriving at Clarkston, WA.
Along the way, I came upon a steep face of columnar basalt exposed alongside the Snake River that was quite impressive.
Clarkston (pop. 7,337) would be my easternmost destination in Washington, at the confluence of the Snake and Clearwater Rivers. Before crossing over the Snake into Idaho (and the adjacent city of Lewiston (pop. 30,904)), I grabbed a delicious bacon/onion ring/ BBQ sauced up cheddar burger with fries and a salad at Roosters on the waterfront. You know, a light lunch. People were very friendly, wishing me good luck and safety, asking me questions about my trip, etc. And, the food was great!
Crossing the Snake into Lewiston, I was in search of a good cappuccino and a place to contemplate my next move with map in hand. The Blue Lantern Coffee Co. was just the spot (now open on Sundays). Throwing in a scrumptiously moist cranberry scone, I had the perfect setup (and plenty of calories in me) to take me as far as I could possibly want to go.
In the greater Lewiston area is Hell's Gate State Park, a deep gorge carved out by the Snake River. I considered calling it a day and camping here. "I'll check it out to see what the campground looks like", I thought. I rode to Hell's Gate along the Lewiston Levee Recreation Trail (built by the US Army Corps of Engineers to keep Lewiston dry). It was a fantastic bike path snaking along the shore of the Snake.
Along this route, a road cyclist pulled up along side me and we rode for a few miles together. He was very helpful in giving me details about the road ahead. By the time I made it to the Hell's Gate campground, I decided I would continue on to Winchester, the next town with a campground. This was a big commitment, 37 more miles climbing up 3,200 feet of river cut terraces.
Despite the challenge, the spectacular scenery along the way would seem to make it an easy ride. Heading out of town, it became clear that Lewiston was a horse town. Numerous trailers with horses passed me along the way. Horse ranches, including those that breed, were plentiful.
Following Tammany Road, I quickly entered the massive Nez Perce reservation. Some of the ancestors from this band of Native Americans assisted Lewis and Clark in their expedition.
The climb was steady for the first half of the afternoon ride, then became much steeper in the latter half. The scenery was surreal. Meadows with old barns and wild flowers (the white flowers in the photo below were very fragrant, and were driving my allergies crazy). Expanses of farmland with different crops
and stages of growth produced an array of patchwork colors on the landscape. As I pushed on, I could begin to see hills in the background covered in conifer 
trees. I was approaching the steep ascent, known as Winchester Grade Road (or, "the old road", as locals would say). However, I think "Goat Route" would be a more suitable name. As I began climbing this quiet, but steep windy road, I felt myself looking for the good hand grabs to pull myself up. But, there were none. I was on a bike, and my legs were going to have to do all the work. However, the scenery became
more and more breathtaking the further I climbed. Anticipation of the next amazing vista, and preoccupation with the sweeping views all around me, kept me going.
I kept telling myself, if I can just make it to the forest, then I'll be in the home stretch.
It was getting cold, and my legs were getting fatigued. I stopped for a quick snack. Some peanuts and gummy bears. Then, back on the bike, from one switchback to the next, working my way to the top.
I reached the trees. But, I was still climbing. "Just around the next corner", I told myself. I must be getting close. More climbing. I eventually see the mountaintop rounding off, and more light coming through ahead. Yes, the top is near.
Overjoyed, I had a burst of energy to keep me going. I made it through the forest and back into an expanse of open field. But, I was still climbing. Along the way, cows were grazing along the side of the road. I stopped to talk with one of them ( any excuse to stop and rest works).
Finally, I see some communication towers ahead. This must be the top. "Communication towers are always at mountain tops", I convinced myself.
It was the top of my climb, and I had finally made it. But, the destination, Winchester, was another 5 miles down the road. Along the final stretch, I had to stop a few times to add more layers of clothing as it was getting colder.
I arrived at the Winchester Lake State Park campground relieved, and exhausted. Nestled in the forest, and
alongside Winchester Lake, the destination was well worth the hard work it took to get there.
I'm curious, what did the cow have to say?
ReplyDeleteDid you use a rock to grind the coffee?
I'm curious about the coffee, as well. :)
ReplyDelete