Day 38: Peppermint Twist, Luce Line, The Green-Belt

Day 38:  Sunday July 13th, 2014. 

Litchfield MN to Minneapolis, MN. 77.6 miles. 

After having such a fun weekend with the Bromans, it was difficult to say goodbye. The fact that I visited them while on this adventure made it even more special for me, and I was very grateful for the time we spent together.  We took some final pictures, Evelyn wearing a beautiful dress for Sunday  church.

Then, she wanted to try out the bike before I left.  I was surprised that she was able to reach the handlebars from the seat!

As I rode down their street, Andrew snapped a great photo (he is a talented photographer), and I headed East towards Minneapolis.

It wasn't but a few miles from their home before I busted into the care package Claudia put together, eating the two chocolate chip muffins while pedaling past the Sparboe Farms plant.

I was still off the Adventure Cycling Route, and would continue to be until I  reached Minneapolis.  I was using the beta version of Google Maps bicycle routing for directions, along with some suggestions from Claudia and Andrew.  There's another state trail to the South of me that runs all the way to Minneapolis, called the Luce Line Trail.  But, away from the city, it is a "crushed limestone" surface, instead of paved.  Not having ever ridden on such a surface that I knew of, I was reluctant to go out of my way to investigate.  So, I stayed on the roads that seemed to be fine until I got closer to the city.

I passed through the town of Delano, and while there, noticed, because you couldn't help but notice the bright pink paint job and other eye-catching decor, the Peppermint Twist burger and shake shack.  The sign on the wall said, "Got Raspberry?"  "Well, no I don't", I thought to myself.  So, I pulled on into the parking lot to see what it was all about.

It was an old-style drive-in, complete with menus at intercom boxes at each parking stall.

I walked up to the window and noticed a sign explaining that they make shakes the real old-fashioned way with real ice cream (not soft serve), and real fresh fruit.  How could I pass this up?  I ordered the raspberry shake, caving into the suggestive advertising.  They blended vanilla ice cream with a bunch of fresh raspberries.  Wow, was it tasty!  My plan was to prop it between my handlebar bag and handlebars and eat it on the go. But, it stopped me dead in my tracks.

As I made my way closer to the city, the highway I was on morphed into an interstate with intimidating infrastructure, including walls on the sides of the road, and on-ramps and off-ramps.  It was time to get off the thing, and find a quieter road for the rest of my ride.  I noticed that the highway was going to intersect the Luce Line Trail.  I took the next available exit and made my way to the trail.

On the way, I noticed my tire was low.  I had patched it on Friday, heading into Litchfield.  I checked it before I set out for the day today and it was fine.  But, the darn patch had some kind of slow leak.  So, I stopped, added some air hoping it would suffice, and continued on looking for the trail.

The trail was well-marked, even from the side road that I was on.  As I turned onto the trail, I noticed that it was actively being used by other cyclists and walkers, which was great.  The surface was still crushed limestone.  I wasn't close enough to the city to have reached the paved section.  But, the non-paved surface was great!  The limestone was crushed very finely, and it was somewhat soft and well compacted.  It was a suitable riding surface, wtih plenty of traction and no risk of flats from big sharp rocks.

It wasn't long before I reached the freshly-paved part.  It is so much fun to ride on these trails, and it removes the stress of having to share the road with cars.

As I navigated my way through a city park, the trail turned into another tunnel of green.

I ran into two other bicyclists that took interest in my fully-loaded bicycle and where I was headed.  Mike and Brandon were their names.  We talked for a good 5-10 minutes while waving off mosquitos.  Concerned about my tire with the patch, they gave me a recommendation for the best bike shop in the city, on the "Green Belt", called FreeWheel Bike Shop.  We also talked about the incredible network of fantastic trails and bike paths in Minnesota, comparing it to places like Portland, Oregon.  Mike and Brandon commute to work year-round on their bicycles.  Mike said, "Yeah, I put on enough clothes, mittens, and scarfs that I probably weigh as much as all the gear on your bike by the time I am ready to venture out in the winter!".

As I continued to work my way toward the city center, the trail wove through several parks, including one that was the scene of an intense Cricket game.  I had never seen the sport played before, so I took a few minutes to watch.

I crossed on a long bridge over a bunch of train tracks and could see the city skyline emerging from the trees.

My route had given me a fantastic introduction to the city of Minneapolis, emerging in a park full of artistic sculptures and interactive things to do, like an artist-designed minerature golf course.

The city is beautiful, with many tree-lined streets with old restored craftsman and victorian homes, a newer urban core home to a vibrant colony of hipsters, and the "Green Belt" and other bike paths that provide a network of safe lanes that bicyclists can use to get just about anywhere in the city.

I contacted a few hosts through WarmShowers.org, hoping to find a free place to stay near the city center with a bed.  One replied and said he was available, but only had room for a tent in the back yard and use of the bathroom.  I hadn't heard back from the other host, so I made my way down to the South side of the city.  As I arrived at the house, I saw the back yard and thought about the trek I had just made from the urban core, and decided to check one more time to see if the other host had replied.  He did!  

His name was Ryan, and he was happy to provide me a futon and use of his bathroom.  He lived adjacent to one of the parks I had passed coming into the city, near the cherry-on-the-bent-spoon sculpture.  I backtracked to his apartment.  I arrived at an early 1900's 4-story brick building.  I was hoping that he was on the first floor.

I took the bags off my bike just about at the same time that Ryan came walking down the sidewalk.  He was a nice young man, going to school at the University of St. Thomas, who helped me with my bags and showed me to his 4th-floor apartment (no elevator).  I was so happy to have a place to stay without the need of pitching a tent that I energetically huffed and puffed as I lugged some of the bags and the bike up the several flights of stairs.

The view from his apartment was outstanding, a field of green in front with the city skyline behind. Later, we saw fireworks from Target Field as the all-stars baseball game was in town.  I told Ryan that I was going to go out to find some good Italian food.  I was in search of a carb-loaded plate of pasta.  He asked if he could join me, and we had a great evening of dinner and conversation.  He was very interested in my trip.  He has a little experience in bike touring, as he took a month while studying in Europe to ride a bicycle from Paris to Rome.

I felt like I was getting another helping of "Minnesota Nice", what Ryan clarified as really "Midwest Nice", but that Minnesota has laid claim to it.